Off the Slopes: Visiting the world’s aquarium

Big Mac holding a mohawked roosterfish. (Photo courtesy McKenna)

Exploring big fish and big beers in southern Baja

In a French accent as thick as a bowl of bouillabaisse, Oceanographer Jacques Cousteau is said to have called the Sea of Cortez, “the world’s aquarium.”

Unlike most aquariums, however, the world’s aquarium allows visitors to do a heck of a lot more than just look at the fish, fondle the sea urchins and peruse the gift shop.

From fishing for legendary fighters like dorado, to swimming with sea lions and whale sharks, to sitting along the white sand beaches of Baja California while drinking shots of a Mexican liquor that’s “good for the love” and chasing it down with Pacificos the size of Alpers monster trout, the Sea of Cortez is the most magical aquarium in the world.

Thanks to the magic of being a member of the Outdoor Writer’s Association of California (OWAC), I had a chance to check out southern Baja and the Sea of Cortez for the first time this spring, and I can see why Jacques Cousteau and legions of Eastside locals love the place.

Baja, Baby

Baja California is the almost 800-mile long, skinny peninsula that divides the Pacific Ocean from the Gulf of California, home of the Sea of Cortez. The “other Mexico,” as it’s called, is divided into the two youngest and least-populated Mexican states, Baja California (Norte) and Baja California Sur.

Despite being surrounded by water and topped by mountains, like the Sierra de la Laguna or Sierra de la Giganta that can reach heights in excess of 7,000 feet, the “forgotten peninsula,” as it’s also known, is basically a desert. There are more cacti than palm trees, more thorns than flowers, and plenty of agave; the key ingredient to Mexico’s most popular gift (and curse) to humanity … tequila.

Thanks to the generous hospitality of our hosts, the welcoming people of La Paz, “the city of peace,” I spent a few nights happily singing Mexico’s official gringo anthem: “Uno tequila, dos tequila, tres tequila, floor!”

Big Fish

The world’s aquarium just so happens to also be one of the world’s best fisheries.

On the idyllic May morning I was lucky enough to cast away on the Gulf of California, our boat, a 22-foot Triumph skillfully captained by Baja Fishing Pirates, had a typical Sea of Cortez day.

While bobbing our way around the picturesque Isla Espírtu Santo, the three anglers on our boat (I was joined by Ken Jones and Jack Holder, author of Secrets of Sierra Fishing) landed nearly 30 fish from seven different species. Four of the fish were firsts for me, including: a spotted sea bass known as “cabrilla;” a four-foot long trumpet fish; a mohawked roosterfish; and the legendary leapers known as “mahi mahi” to Americans and as “dorado” south of the border.

Besides the fact that they leap and fight like neon torpedoes, the bull-headed dorado are known for their breathtaking color — so long as they’re still in the water. While the fish is fighting, brilliant streaks of electric blue and fire-rocket red blaze across their glowing yellow scales. But as soon as the dorado is landed, it leaves much of its beauty behind. That’s why dorados never look as good in photos as they do on the line.

There are too many fishing world records from the Sea of Cortez to list in any article. To put it simply: If you can catch it in the Gulf of California, that’s probably where the world record holder was hooked.

Angling in the Sea of Cortez, especially from late spring through early fall, is something that should be atop the bucket list of any angler worth his salt-rimmed margarita.

Swim with Sharks

“Go ahead,” a senorita named Carmen said in a cute Mexican accent, “jshh-ump in!”

Now you can call me a crazy gringo, but this just didn’t seem like solid advice, especially since the panga we were cruising in pulled up alongside a fish at least 18 feet long. A fish from the shark family nonetheless, and one that was hanging no less than two feet of dorsal fin above the water.

It was one of those great moments in life when your mind tells you one thing (Jump in! It’s just a krill-eating whale, you pansy!), but your instincts tell you another (It’s a shark, for crying out loud! And this amiga is “loco en la cabeza.” Don’t make me start humming the “Jaws” theme!).

Of course, no one likes to be called a pansy, especially by your own sub-conscious, so I eventually jumped in and swam along with a couple members of the world’s largest fish. It was nothing shy of magical, an experience certain to long swim through my dreams.

Little is known about the massive whale sharks, except that they’re filter feeders like whales and they like to hang out each spring in the warm waters of the Bahia de La Paz.

Baja Expeditions, “the world’s leader in eco-adventures to Baja,” took us on the naturalist guided tour. Tim Means (an ex-pat and David Crosby lookalike) founded Baja Expeditions over 35 years ago with the mission of helping transition people “from a moment of awe and wonder to a lifetime of conviction and action.” Tim has now become one of the leading and most respected conservationists in Baja.

It’s important that Baja has inspired people like Tim, because there is an unchecked aspect to the Sea of Cortez. It seems like they’ll not only let you catch and swim with all the fish you want, you can practically make love to them and nobody’s going to care—although the whale sharks probably require lots of foreplay.

On a positive note, an island off La Paz, formally known (and still referred to by the locals) as “Isla Cerravalo” has been renamed Jacques Cousteau Island, in honor of the man who once said, “A lot of people attack the sea. I make love to it.”

Love Sauce

For some of us, beer is all the aphrodisiac we need. For others, a little extra help every now and then doesn’t hurt any; unless we’re drinking tequila, and then it’ll probably hurt the next morning.

While tequila is the national drink, Baja has a concoction that claims to blow the beach towel off tequila or beer. It’s called “Damiana,” and it’s made from the plant of the same name that grows under the hot desert sun of southern Baja.

Damiana has the black licorice taste of anisette and is mellow-tasting enough to blend well with other drinks, like the margaritas they served our group of nearly 100 as we watched the sun set over the Sea of Cortez. (Despite being on the eastside of Baja, the peninsula of La Paz looks west across the water).

While Damiana may not make the tastiest cocktails of all time, what makes the drink mouth-watering is the legend that accompanies it. As the bartender explained while handing over another round, in an accent as thick as a bowl of ceviche, “It’s good for the love, amigo!”

Indeed, he told the truth. Although the delightfully warm weather, cool ocean breezes and abundance of big bottles of Pacifico known as “Ballenas,” or “whales,” didn’t hurt any either.

After my first trip to the world’s aquarium and southern Baja, I definitely now understand why they say, “Vive La Paz!” And why Jacques Cousteau said, “The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.”